Meg Doyle reviews the latest Haluminous collection presented at London Fashion Week.
Disarming and demonic, the presentation of the Haluminous AW17 collection at Fashion Scout was an unorthodox departure from the standard runway format. An eerie soundscape and dramatic red glow lured bypassers in towards the show, where a dancer crouched inside a ring of lillies and candles on the floor. As the soundscape grew, so too did her movements- twisting and convulsing within the circle. Then came the models, or rather fashion zombies, as they shall henceforth be referred to.
The Australian label’s cast of zombies stumbled out one by one, eyes vacant and dead limbs dangling awkwardly. On their faces, Korean script. Oversize jumpers, boxy kimono style jackets, and ruffled blouses under shift dresses: the uncomplicated separates make up an entirely wearable collection.
With belts and straps that could convert each garment into a straightjacket in a moments notice, the unravelling seams added to the fragility and tension of the presentation. Designer Hannah Kim’s simple silhouettes and a palette of red, black and white allowed for the finer details to stand out.
Intricate beading and embroidery embellished the layers of jersey and cotton, the frayed edges of which quivered almost as unsteadily as their wearer. As they say, the devil’s in the details. And Haluminous ensured there was plenty of both to go around.
Kim describes it as ‘couture streetwear’. Her debut collection in 2016 was a frothy pastel pink offering of sequins and pearls- a far cry from today’s brooding exploration of a much darker concept. Inspired by a poem she wrote, Floral DNA; Born to be a Lily drips in symbolism and challenges what we preconceive to be ‘couture’ or ‘streetwear’ by blurring the line between the two.
With a clear creative direction and strong technical skills, Hannah Kim is taking Haluminous in an exciting direction that rejects the rules in both concept and presentation of her unique vision.
About Meg Doyle
Meg is an Australian born, London based fashion writer. Having recently graduated from London College of Fashion, she’s now finding her feet in the city’s fast paced industry. Passionate about supporting young designers, Meg has covered Graduate Fashion Week and uses her own blog Titian Thread to spotlight emerging creatives. Beyond fashion, hobbies include self-inflicted sleep deprivation and desperately attempting to avoiding Aussie-in-London stereotypes, failing miserably due to her love of avocado on toast.