London based contributor, Meg Doyle, reviews the cultural polymath Pam Hogg’s latest collection shown at London Fashion Week AW17.
It’s best to expect the unexpected when it comes to artist, musician and fashion designer Pam Hogg. This was certainly the hard and fast rule leading up to her Autumn/Winter 2017 show at Fashion Scout, where a frenzied crowd squeezed into Freemason’s Hall, Fashion Scout’s decadent art deco home for LFW.
Waiting for the legendary Scottish designer’s presentation to begin was a show in itself. Guests kept themselves occupied, spotting famous faces and noting the sartorial lengths they’d go to for Hogg and the accompanying throng of photographers.
Opening the show was Alice Dellal in jet black latex and tulle, introducing what would become a key theme of the collection: the 1950s. Instead of Mad Men, think Pan Am goes dominatrix, complete with air hostess hats atop Hollywood waves.
The diverse range of references that Hogg picks up on are entirely unique to what the rest of the fashion set are doing. As a cultural polymath moving between music, fashion and art, she draws on her own life and career, this season more than ever. References for the aptly titled ‘Army of Lovers’ were drawn from far and wide, then exaggerated beyond recognition in true Hogg style.
Nods to the 80’s could be found in post-punk and new romantic twists: anarchist symbols and Sex Pistols-esque logos appeared just as often as Duran Duran’s Nick Rhodes, who made the catwalk his own in head to toe vinyl.
Silks in bright scarlet and monochrome followed in a handful of unexpectedly modest cocktail dresses – a demure tangent to explore, if only for a moment. Slipping straight back into slick rubber for an unapologetic play on the Naughty Insert-Occupation-Here costume, uniform inspired suiting drove home Hogg’s theme. Tongue planted firmly in cheek, Hogg pushed it further, throwing canary yellow and emerald hues into the mix.
Then came the mirror balls! From the front row, the original man in the mirror ball suit Noel Fielding watched on approvingly, undoubtedly adding pieces to his mental wishlist. Or perhaps his discoball catsuit days are done? Either way, the injection added another texture to the pallet and answered the question, how many sequins are too many? According to Pam, too many is barely enough.
Hogg’s models showered the floor in rose petals for the final walk, encapsulating the mood of the collection: indulgence. This meant a no holds barred experimentation with texture and tone, and an attitude of fearlessness. Particularly in the face of shiny marbled floors and precariously stacked heels.
About Meg Doyle
Meg is an Australian born, London based fashion writer. Having recently graduated from London College of Fashion, she’s now finding her feet in the city’s fast paced industry. Passionate about supporting young designers, Meg has covered Graduate Fashion Week and uses her own blog Titian Thread to spotlight emerging creatives. Beyond fashion, hobbies include self-inflicted sleep deprivation and desperately attempting to avoiding Aussie-in-London stereotypes, failing miserably due to her love of avocado on toast.